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Choosing gasket material
#21
(05-30-2017, 03:10 PM)Support Wrote:
(05-30-2017, 12:10 PM)Bill Wrote: Working at rebuilding a 20 year old two stage air compressor.  I am looking for a suitable high temperature gasket sheet stock in three areas.

Cylinder Head to the Valve Plate 
Valve Plate to Cylinder Body
Cylinder body to Crank Case

I believe that the only critical thickness gasket in the set would be from the Main Cylinder to the Valve plate which after 20 years of compression measures 3/64".

Any suggestions on the sheet stock to use?

Thanks,
Bill

Hi Bill,

Our Pro-Ramic sheet material would work well for all 3 of those areas. The part number for the sheet is 2498 - it is 12 wide ” X 28 long” X 3/64 thick”

To be on the safe side what would the material part number be for a 1/16" thickness of the Pro-Ramic Sheet Stock.

Thanks,
Bill
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#22
(05-31-2017, 11:00 AM)bill Wrote: To be on the safe side what would the material part number be for a 1/16" thickness of the Pro-Ramic Sheet Stock.

Thanks,
Bill


Bill,

Pro-Ramic is only available in 3/64" thickness:
http://www.fme-cat.com/digipubZ/Fel-Pro-...?page=1300

You can consider Fel-Ramic material if you need 1/16" thickness. If you can use the 3/64" thick material, we'd recommend sticking with the Pro-Ramic though.
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#23
Is Fel-Pro 3157 compatible with ammonia for flange gasket use.
Thanks
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#24
(07-10-2017, 04:12 PM)Refrig. tech Wrote: Is Fel-Pro 3157 compatible with ammonia for flange gasket use.
Thanks

Hi,

This is an interesting one - we design our gasket materials for automotive use, and since ammonia isn't used in automotive applications, we haven't tested our materials (nor are we set up to) for ammonia exposure. 3157 is our rubber-fiber material and is designed for sealing oil, coolant or gasoline. Unfortunately we can't make a recommendation as we don't test any of our materials for ammonia resistance and would have no way to back up the recommendation.
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#25
(03-31-2016, 07:45 PM)Support Wrote: Denny,

After doing some research and taking a look at a bunch of Buick 3.8L Turbo engine pictures, we see there are 2 gaskets that connect the turbo – one is a 3 bolt flange and the other for a 6 bolt flange.

Unfortunately the set has been discontinued as you already know. It looks like fabricating your own gaskets out of Fel-Ramic 2499 )which is only 1/16” thick) is going to be your best bet.

You may have to double them up to get the required thickness. We never recommend doubling gasket up for the same reason gaskets are not normally 3/16" thick - over time and with heat cycles, a leak is more likely to develop. However is the thickness is needed due to clearance issues, you may not have a choice.

You could also check weberpowerproducts.com as they offer some turbo gaskets for the 3.8L turbo.

Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions!

Just an afterthought. Perhaps in situations where doubling is required a thin metal piece in the shape of said gasket in the middle of might be good idea so that you have gasket metal gasket rather than gasket on gasket. Even a thick aluminum foil should suffice.
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#26
(07-11-2017, 09:06 PM)Guest Wrote: Just an afterthought. Perhaps in situations where doubling is required a thin metal piece in the shape of said gasket in the middle of might be good idea so that you have gasket metal gasket rather than gasket on gasket. Even a thick aluminum foil should suffice.

We wouldn't recommend this. Aluminum foil will not stand up and movement between the gaskets could cause it to shred, resulting in a leak or contamination.

The best solution is to never stack gaskets or gasket material. Use the thinnest material/gasket possible while still maintaining the proper seal and clearance. If it in absolutely unavoidable, as were the case for Denny, the best thing to do is make sure the flanges are clean, dry and flat.
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