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Rear main seal installation
#21
The new Teflon seal appears to be leaking after 2 days of driving. There's a small drip that forms about every minute and from what I've read, it's only going to get worse _ once oil has penetrated the Teflon seal, it goes down hill very fast.
I just don't understand what's going here, I pressed the Speedi-Sleeve on, cleaned the crank with lacquer thinner, used the plastic tool to install the seal, rotated the crank at least 4 times and then let it sit for 24 hours.
I'm still not quite entirely convinced that crank case pressure blew the garter spring in the first place. My machinist said they rev racing engines up to 8000rpm on new rebuilds (not broken in) and the seals don't pop their garter springs.
I think this time around, I'm going to make a plate to mount the starter so I can run the engine in-situ while the trans is off.
After working on finicky and quirky British engines (Jaguar, Bentley, Triumph) this shouldn't be happening on a simple Ford V6.
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#22
(09-29-2017, 07:14 AM)Guest Wrote: The new Teflon seal appears to be leaking after 2 days of driving. There's a small drip that forms about every minute and from what I've read, it's only going to get worse _ once oil has penetrated the Teflon seal, it goes down hill very fast.
I just don't understand what's going here, I pressed the Speedi-Sleeve on, cleaned the crank with lacquer thinner, used the plastic tool to install the seal, rotated the crank at least 4 times and then let it sit for 24 hours.
I'm still not quite entirely convinced that crank case pressure blew the garter spring in the first place. My machinist said they rev racing engines up to 8000rpm on new rebuilds (not broken in) and the seals don't pop their garter springs.
I think this time around, I'm going to make a plate to mount the starter so I can run the engine in-situ while the trans is off.
After working on finicky and quirky British engines (Jaguar, Bentley, Triumph) this shouldn't be happening on a simple Ford V6.

Thanks for your patience while this was passed along. We ended up talking to John Gurnig from the Fel-Pro Field Test Garage as his first-hand experience with the repair environment is always helpful. Here's what he had to say:

"After 2 seals and still the same issue, there has to be something else going on here. If running the engine out of the vehicle is an option, it would certainly help determine where the leak is coming from.

These engines are known for the oil pan end seals to move out of place and leak as well. I don’t think that’s your issue but…

Make sure the crank surface that you installed the speedi-sleeve onto is “flat”, that is, a smooth surface with no bumps or ripples in it."

Our engineers agree that there may be something else going on here. From how you described the repair, you took the correct steps. The sealing surface of the sleeve could be too rough, resulting in a leak or there could be some other problem causing these continued failures.

Let us know if you have any other questions, and what you end up finding!
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#23
(10-09-2017, 04:08 PM)Support Wrote:
(09-29-2017, 07:14 AM)Guest Wrote: The new Teflon seal appears to be leaking after 2 days of driving. There's a small drip that forms about every minute and from what I've read, it's only going to get worse _ once oil has penetrated the Teflon seal, it goes down hill very fast.
I just don't understand what's going here, I pressed the Speedi-Sleeve on, cleaned the crank with lacquer thinner, used the plastic tool to install the seal, rotated the crank at least 4 times and then let it sit for 24 hours.
I'm still not quite entirely convinced that crank case pressure blew the garter spring in the first place. My machinist said they rev racing engines up to 8000rpm on new rebuilds (not broken in) and the seals don't pop their garter springs.
I think this time around, I'm going to make a plate to mount the starter so I can run the engine in-situ while the trans is off.
After working on finicky and quirky British engines (Jaguar, Bentley, Triumph) this shouldn't be happening on a simple Ford V6.

Thanks for your patience while this was passed along. We ended up talking to John Gurnig from the Fel-Pro Field Test Garage as his first-hand experience with the repair environment is always helpful. Here's what he had to say:

"After 2 seals and still the same issue, there has to be something else going on here. If running the engine out of the vehicle is an option, it would certainly help determine where the leak is coming from.

These engines are known for the oil pan end seals to move out of place and leak as well. I don’t think that’s your issue but…

Make sure the crank surface that you installed the speedi-sleeve onto is “flat”, that is, a smooth surface with no bumps or ripples in it."

Our engineers agree that there may be something else going on here. From how you described the repair, you took the correct steps. The sealing surface of the sleeve could be too rough, resulting in a leak or there could be some other problem causing these continued failures.

Let us know if you have any other questions, and what you end up finding!
 The leak seems to be holding as described (not getting worse). This of course is not supposed to happen with a Teflon seal. I've read that once they start to leak (for what ever reason), the leak gets worse, quite quickly, and this is not what's happening, so maybe something else is leaking, but it certainly does appear to be coming from the crank seal.
 My garage space is limited and my Jaguar is in there for the winter, and I can't pull the trans again out on the gravel boulevard, so it will just have to leak until the weather warms up.

 I will make up an aluminum mounting plate so I can temporarily mount the starter and fire it up with out the trans in place.
 I'll intend to put on another sleeve, this time I will make a device where I can carfulley press it into place.
 I'll see you and this forum next year. Thank you for your continued support.
 If it starts to leak really bad, I'll just drive my old B2200 for the time.
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#24
(10-23-2017, 08:04 PM)Guest Wrote:  The leak seems to be holding as described (not getting worse). This of course is not supposed to happen with a Teflon seal. I've read that once they start to leak (for what ever reason), the leak gets worse, quite quickly, and this is not what's happening, so maybe something else is leaking, but it certainly does appear to be coming from the crank seal.
 My garage space is limited and my Jaguar is in there for the winter, and I can't pull the trans again out on the gravel boulevard, so it will just have to leak until the weather warms up.

 I will make up an aluminum mounting plate so I can temporarily mount the starter and fire it up with out the trans in place.
 I'll intend to put on another sleeve, this time I will make a device where I can carfulley press it into place.
 I'll see you and this forum next year. Thank you for your continued support.
 If it starts to leak really bad, I'll just drive my old B2200 for the time.

Keep us updated and let us know if you have any other questions!
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